Dwarf evergreen hedger ideal for formal edging and hedging.Slow growing and probably the countries best love dwarf hedger. Only need clipping once ...
View full detailsBuxus Sempervirens or box as it is commonly known is the ideal plant for formal hedges or hedging as well as being the topiary plant of choice at h...
View full detailsBuxus Sempervirens or box as it is commonly known is the ideal plant for formal hedges or hedging as well as being the topiary plant of choice at h...
View full detailsFagus - green beech - forms a dense hedge with oval, wavy green leaves that change to bronze/ brown, the beech holds onto these throughout autumn a...
View full detailsPrivet tend to be semi-evergreen plants depending on how cold the winter is. They have simple, oval leaves and bear small white flowers followed by...
View full detailsCherry laurels are the most widely planted evergreen hedger. They need a little room to develop and can be pruned anytime. Feed twice a year to kee...
View full detailsNew form of hedging laurel. More floriferous and free fruiting, which gives a bit more interest and food for the birds, though the fruit is toxic t...
View full detailsClassic laurel hedging. It's the country's favourite hedging shrub. Lovely luxurious evergreen bright green leaves. Grows easily in all soils excep...
View full detailsClassic laurel hedging. It's the country's favourite hedging shrub. Lovely luxurious evergreen bright green leaves. Grows easily in all soils excep...
View full detailsClassic laurel hedging. It's the country's favourite hedging shrub. Lovely luxurious evergreen bright green leaves. Grows easily in all soils excep...
View full detailsClassic laurel hedging. It's the country's favourite hedging shrub. Lovely luxurious evergreen bright green leaves. Grows easily in all soils excep...
View full detailsClassic laurel hedging. It's the country's favourite hedging shrub. Lovely luxurious evergreen leaves. Grows easily in all soils except waterlog...
View full detailsPhotinias are one of the most widely planted screening and specimen shrub. They make fantastic feature plants and screens and are renowned for thei...
View full detailsPrunus lusitanica Angustifolia - Portuguese Laurel are fantastic laurels that are a great alternative to the classic cherry Laurel. They are more f...
View full detailsPrunus lusitanica Angustifolia - Portuguese Laurel are fantastic laurels that are a great alternative to the classic cherry Laurel. They are more f...
View full detailsPrunus lusitanica Angustifolia - Portuguese Laurel are fantastic laurels that are a great alternative to the classic cherry Laurel. They are more f...
View full detailsPrunus lusitanica Angustifolia - Portuguese Laurel are fantastic laurels that are a great alternative to the classic cherry Laurel. They are more f...
View full detailsFagus ( Please click for advice) - beech - is a traditional English hedge that has lovely green or copper purple, oval wavy edged foliage that chan...
View full detailsThuja - cedar - are fast growing, evergreen conifers, they have compact yellowish green foliage that when crushed smells heavenly of pineapple. The...
View full detailsThuja - cedar - are fast growing, evergreen conifers, they have compact yellowish green foliage that when crushed smells heavenly of pineapple. The...
View full detailsThuja - cedar - are fast growing, evergreen conifers, they have compact yellowish green foliage that when crushed smells heavenly of pineapple. The...
View full detailsThuja - cedar - are fast growing, evergreen conifers, they have compact yellowish green foliage that when crushed smells heavenly of pineapple. The...
View full detailsThuja - cedar - are fast growing, evergreen conifers, they have compact yellowish green foliage that when crushed smells heavenly of pineapple. The...
View full detailsThuja - cedar - are fast growing, evergreen conifers, they have compact yellowish green foliage that when crushed smells heavenly of pineapple. The...
View full detailsThuja - cedar - are fast growing, evergreen conifers, they have compact yellowish green foliage that when crushed smells heavenly of pineapple. ...
View full detailsThuja - cedar - are fast growing, evergreen conifers, they have compact yellowish green foliage that when crushed smells heavenly of pineapple. ...
View full detailsYew -there is nothing more stately and quintessentially British than a yew hedge. There are several forms of Yew but only really Baccata are mass g...
View full detailsYew -there is nothing more stately and quintessentially British than a yew hedge. There are several forms of Yew but only really Baccata are mass g...
View full detailsYew -there is nothing more stately and quintessentially British than a yew hedge. There are several forms of Yew but only really Baccata are mass g...
View full detailsYew -there is nothing more stately and quintessentially British than a yew hedge. There are several forms of Yew but only really Baccata are mass g...
View full detailsYew -there is nothing more stately and quintessentially British than a yew hedge. There are several forms of Yew but only really Baccata are mass g...
View full detailsRoot balled hedging is only available from October to March and if you want the best picks, they come from the first diggings in October, so it pays to order up front and reserve early - plus we always offer an extra incentive for advanced orders.
If you want to collect from our nursery, you must order through our website and await a call to confirm your order is ready. Is a great way to get large hedging plants for less of an outlay. They are dug from the fields where they grow much fatter than in containers. All Available for delivery From November with a few in October
Root Ball Hedging
When planting a new hedge, root ball is a great option.
Root balled hedging is a great way to get large hedging plants for less of an outlay. They are dug from the fields where they grow much faster than grown in containers. Root balls are dug from October but you can order them now. We will advise you on the optimum timing of the start of digging. You can trust us, and we can work together to get you the best chance possible for success. If the Balls cannot be dug and dispatched within a few days, as a further insurance they don't dry out, we pot them into compost to keep the balls nice and damp. If you are ready to roll as soon as digging starts, we offer a special-pre-order discount to take them straight from the field. That way we save on handling them, and you gain the opportunity to get them extra fresh and the ability to drop them straight into warm soil giving them a head start. You always lose one or two to transport shock, so you should allow for the possibility of buying replacements if you do lose any, but it's well worth the risk as the same plants pot grown are far more money and you need more of them to achieve the same result. The following are a few tips that should help you minimise this risk. We do not offer guarantees with plants, so read up as much as you can and you should have great success.
Planting Root Balls
Keep the sacking on them as the roots will grow through it and the sacking is biodegradable. Dig the hole like normal, making sure the soil is nice and loose, so the water can drain through. Place the plant in the hole making sure it is upright, placing the root ball, so it is level with the ground - not too low and not too high - back fill with the soil or compost firming it down to make sure there is good contact with the soil in your garden. Once planted you should ensure the plant is not going to rock in the wind, if this is going to happen then you should secure the plant with a stake and a suitable tie. Give it a good soaking at the base, not all over the leaves, and keep it moist, not soaking wet, for the next growing season. It's not necessary to water the plants when it is raining every day, but if there is no real natural water for a week or so then give them a good soak two or three times a week with a bucket of water each. When they have been in for a week or two, just before you water them, have a feel alongside the new plants, down to base of the rootball to see how dry or wet it feels. If you can squeeze water out of a fist full of soil they are too wet. As soon as they are growing away nicely you reduce the watering to a visual look at the plants and they will look thirsty when they need a good soak. A month to six weeks after planting you should be able to relax the watering right off. If you leave planting your rootballed stock late in the season, say March, then you may need to step up the water to every day for the first 2 weeks especially if those drying east winds are happening. If you are concerned ask one of our experts.
On certain hedging types such as Yew, then its wise to water the foliage as well, this will help prevent the foliage from dessicating in strong winds
You must keep away any unwanted grass and weeds from the new plants as they will take all the moisture and food.
We supply the Vitax Q4 Rootgrow Mycorrhizal Fungi, this is excellent and is also recommended by the RHS. It can be used once the hole has been dug and you are about to put the Root Ball plants into the ground. Its a good way to help the plants get off to the best start possible
Root balled hedging is a great way to get large hedging plants for less of an outlay. They are dug from the fields where they grow much fatter than grown in containers. Root balls are dug from October but you can order them now. We will advise you on the optimum timing of the start of digging. You can trust us and we can work together to get you the best chance possible for success. If the Balls can not be dug and dispatched within a few days, as a further insurance they don't dry out, we pot them into compost to keep the balls nice and damp. If you are ready to roll as soon as digging starts we offer a special pre-order discount to take them straight from the field. That way we save on handling them and you gain the opportunity to get them extra fresh and the ability to drop them straight into warm soil giving them a head start. You always lose one or two to transport shock, so you should allow for the possibility of buying replacements if you do lose any, but it's well worth the risk as the same plants pot grown are far more money and you need more of them to achieve the same result. The following are a few tips that should help you minimise this risk. We do not offer guarantees with plants, so read up as much as you can and you should have great success.
Planting Root Balls
To plant the root balls,
Keep the sacking on them as the roots will grow through it and the sacking is biodegradable.
Dig the hole like normal, making sure the soil is nice and loose, so the water can drain through.
Place the plant in the hole making sure it is upright, placing the root ball, so it is level with the ground - not too low and not too high - back fill with the soil or compost firming it down to make sure there is good contact with the soil in your garden.
Once planted you should ensure the plant is not going to rock in the wind, if this is going to happen then you should secure the plant with a stake and a suitable tie.
Give it a good soaking at the base, not all over the leaves, and keep it moist, not soaking wet, for the next growing season. It's not necessary to water the plants when it is raining every day, but if there is no real natural water for a week or so then give them a good soak two or three times a week with a bucket of water each. When they have been in for a week or two, just before you water them, have a feel alongside the new plants, down to base of the rootball to see how dry or wet it feels. If you can squeeze water out of a fist full of soil they are too wet. As soon as they are growing away nicely you reduce the watering to a visual look at the plants and they will look thirsty when they need a good soak. A month to six weeks after planting you should be able to relax the watering right off. If you leave planting your rootballed stock late in the season, say March, then you may need to step up the water to every day for the first 2 weeks especially if those drying east winds are happening. If you are concerned ask one of our experts.
You must keep away any unwanted grass and weeds from the new plants as they will take all the moisture and food.
We now supply the Empathy Rootgrow Mycorrhizal Fungi, this is excellent and is also recommended by the RHS. It can be used once the hole has been dug and you are about to put the Root Ball plants into the ground. Its a good way to help the plants get off to the best start possible.
When planting a new hedge, root ball is a great option.
Root balled hedging is a great way to get large hedging plants for less of an outlay. They are dug from the fields where they grow much faster than grown in containers. Root balls are dug from October but you can order them now. We will advise you on the optimum timing of the start of digging. You can trust us, and we can work together to get you the best chance possible for success. If the Balls cannot be dug and dispatched within a few days, as a further insurance they don't dry out, we pot them into compost to keep the balls nice and damp. If you are ready to roll as soon as digging starts, we offer a special-pre-order discount to take them straight from the field. That way we save on handling them, and you gain the opportunity to get them extra fresh and the ability to drop them straight into warm soil giving them a head start. You always lose one or two to transport shock, so you should allow for the possibility of buying replacements if you do lose any, but it's well worth the risk as the same plants pot grown are far more money and you need more of them to achieve the same result. The following are a few tips that should help you minimise this risk. We do not offer guarantees with plants, so read up as much as you can and you should have great success.
Planting Root Balls
Keep the sacking on them as the roots will grow through it and the sacking is biodegradable. Dig the hole like normal, making sure the soil is nice and loose, so the water can drain through. Place the plant in the hole making sure it is upright, placing the root ball, so it is level with the ground - not too low and not too high - back fill with the soil or compost firming it down to make sure there is good contact with the soil in your garden. Once planted you should ensure the plant is not going to rock in the wind, if this is going to happen then you should secure the plant with a stake and a suitable tie. Give it a good soaking at the base, not all over the leaves, and keep it moist, not soaking wet, for the next growing season. It's not necessary to water the plants when it is raining every day, but if there is no real natural water for a week or so then give them a good soak two or three times a week with a bucket of water each. When they have been in for a week or two, just before you water them, have a feel alongside the new plants, down to base of the rootball to see how dry or wet it feels. If you can squeeze water out of a fist full of soil they are too wet. As soon as they are growing away nicely you reduce the watering to a visual look at the plants and they will look thirsty when they need a good soak. A month to six weeks after planting you should be able to relax the watering right off. If you leave planting your rootballed stock late in the season, say March, then you may need to step up the water to every day for the first 2 weeks especially if those drying east winds are happening. If you are concerned ask one of our experts.
On certain hedging types such as Yew, then its wise to water the foliage as well, this will help prevent the foliage from dessicating in strong winds
You must keep away any unwanted grass and weeds from the new plants as they will take all the moisture and food.
We supply the Vitax Q4 Rootgrow Mycorrhizal Fungi, this is excellent and is also recommended by the RHS. It can be used once the hole has been dug and you are about to put the Root Ball plants into the ground. Its a good way to help the plants get off to the best start possible
